Down through the hills
Going up
To Continue
In the dark and cold we shared our stories and continued over a couple of Americanos in a bar, before the main ascent began. I really needed to make progress given my long day, but I felt I needed, and wanted to walk up the mountain with Owen, so we continued the climb together. There were a few really steep parts, but we both got up to very close to the top, when a lovely sunny bar appeared. Owen wanted to celebrate the ascent, so we had (large) beers. We then realised that Luca was in the bar, and then Paul turned up. More large beers and lots of laughs. Eventually Luca,Owen and I carried on to the top, where inevitably there was a other beer. Eventually I had to say good bye. I started down the mountain,it was 1:45, I had more than a litre of beer in my belly, no food and 22km still to go, but I was a happy little camper.
Everyone talks about their Camino Angels. The person that turbs up when you are on the wrong track and puts you right. The person that turns up when it all gets to much, and puts you right.
Owen said he would not have got up that mountain yesterday without me. Of course he would, but hopefully I made it a little easier and was his Camino angel yesterday. I certainly appreciated my Camino angel later in the afternoon when he turned up
Wandering down the mountain, enjoying the sunshine, the cows in the pasture and the dong, dong of their bells, a car suddenly pulled up. It became obvious I was going the wrong way, as were the 3 huge German guys behind me. He bundled us all, with our rucksacks in his small car and drove us almost 2 km back up the mountaun to the correct turnoff. Thank you! I did not want to take motorised transport until Santiago, but did not miss a cm of the trail.
I eventually arrived in Triacastela at 6:30, almost 12 hours on the trail. A quick turnaround and I went out and ordered a huge supper.
Galicia
Signal problems last night, but OK at the .moment.
I knew yesterday was going to be a long day, as I had scheduled at 35km plus walk with 700m of elevation.
First of all, briefly back to Wednesday. I was going to mention that Luca and I had bumped into a pair walking together, Paul from Seattle and what sounded like Orn from Ireland. They were walking a a reasonable pace, despite the fact Orn obvious had a problem with his leg (s). We had a brief chat and Orn mentioned that he was going to be on the road by 5am the next day to make sure he got up the mountain. They both stopped for the day in a pretty town about 8 km before Trabadelo, where we were saying. As part of the story about Paul and Orn, I was going to talk about Bathrobe Bob, but more of him another time.
Knowing I had long day, left my hostal at the earliest I have ever done, at 6:45. Beautiful stars, but totally dark and freezing cold.
Just as I came out of the door, the unmistakable figure of Orn was waking past. I caught up with him and thought I would walk with him For a short while before pushing on, a long way to go.
We started talking, and first of all Orn's name is Owen, sorry Owen. He comes from Limerick, which may explain the mis understanding
Owen has a twisted leg, which makes his walking laboured, and his walking g sti is are essential, unlike the vast majority of everyone else's. He told me he had almost quit at the beginning as getting over the pyrenees had been so tough and he was also very unfit, so walking 10 km a day was a serious effort. However, 4 weeks on he is still here, but obviously nervous of the mornings climb to come of 700m He had indeed left his hostal at 5 am to walk the 9 km of so to where I joined at 6:45.
Inevitably we discussed why we were on the Camino. Owen's wife had died 1year and 7 months ago, quite suddenly of cancer. Need to get up. More later