San Juan de Ortega
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No signal, no posts
No signal either wifi or 4g in the last 2 places I have stayed, so i will do a bit of a catch up.
From the last time I posted, I have moved from the vinyards of the Ebro valley, to wine open upland valleys, and yesterday, up into steep wooded valleys.
I had a soft day on Sunday. Only walked 22 km out of La Rioja, into Castilla y Leon. It has to be said, the signage in Rioja was tatty and haphazard. I went a bit wrong more than once. In Castilla, like Navarra, it is big and shiny and helpful. I was a wuss on Sunday, and got a hotel room in a place called Belorado, a rather unremarkable town. I was there by one, so after some rather disgusting croquetas, I had a quiet afternoon and evening luxurating in solitaryness.
Decided a big walk was necessary yesterday, so did 37 km. Currently tky sitting having breakfast 10 km outside Burgos. It is going to be an uninspiring walk through the suburbs to get there, so I will try to find a bed for tonight, and carry on this post over a second breakfast in Burgos.
No room at the inn
Now 22 km west of Burgos. Finding somewhere to stay has been difficult. Lots of people leaving Burgos this morning and not an y beds. I have some one comingto pick me up and take me 6 km off piste to a little hotel 6km away, apparently in a beautiful location. Another single room, quelle domage! Thank goodness for a bit of Spanish. More later, subject to signal .
Now at Hotel La Molina. No idea what it costs, but they are very friendly. Dinner is at 7. Several other stranded pellegrinos here.
Just back to yesterday. One of the best parts was San Juan de Ortaga. Lovely old village, dominated by the monastery. The church is white limestone 12th century romanesque, and incredibly beautiful. San Juan's body lies within, possibly the reason for the locked gates. It is one of those churches that has a special sense of silence.
I also came across a monument to 300 people who were shot in the first few days of the civil war, very moving.
I ended up in a nice albergue where it turned out, that a single room was only €15 more than a bunk. Not a difficult choice. Dinner was a communal meal, with about 20 around the table, including more Canadians Germans, Kiwis, Aussies, French and just the one English person again.
Today has been taken up with finding a room, but I have covered 33km. Due to room difficulties, sadly did not spend much time in Burgos.
I am now on La Mesita, a high Limestone plateau, generally at 800m covering a good part of N W Spain. The next 220 km of the Camino travels over this harsh terrain. More tomorrow