Sitting in a bar with a glass of Rioja and a bowl of olives, on lovely sunny evening in an unremarkable,but lively town in Spain. Things could be a lot worse.

I decided to zone out the masses today, but it wasn't really necessary, as there seemed to be a lot fewer of them today, possibly because until mid afternoon it was damp and misty. 

The day started well when the little church next to my albergue was open, warm, and welcoming, and had real candles.

I did try the electronic candles a week or so ago. I put my euro in the slot and 8 candles lit up. It felt like playing the slot machines. If 10 had lit up, I might have won €100. 

The morning continued most of the time along peaceful wooded tracks, emerging at lunchtime at another unremarkable town, Melide. However, the Sunday morning market and the Sunday lunchtime cafe life, was a lovely slice of real Spain. 

I had already visited a second small church with candles, but just outside Melide was an amazing, tiny 9th century romanesque, Knights Templar church (the Knights Templar, in their day, protected the pilgrims along most of the route, but I think particularly out here beyond Leon).

Inside were incredibly well preserved 14th century frescos. I will post the pictures hopefully when I get a good signal. Needless to say, more candles. 

In the afternoon I met Marta from Poland. Marta had an interesting story, not least that she went to Wakefield to work in the Next warehouse 'picking', to earn the money to fulfill her dream of walking the Camino. She is distraught at the thought of finishing. 

While we were walking together, the sun came out, burning off the mist, and revealing the green hills of Galicia again. 

So tonight is the last night on the road. I am staying at a lovely modern albergue, in an old building. Cabin beds, and  well designed fixtures. I hope I sleep a bit better than last night. It will be an early start and a reasonable time walking in the dark, but 39 km to Santiago tomorrow. 

Time to find something to eat 

(Last night's supper was great, local Galician food). 

Tomorrow, after 500 miles, I will write from Santiago.